Okay, so I completed an auction with SalvageWorld.net and this is what I've learned: It is a legitimate way for the common man to purchase a wrecked/salvaged/pitiful/rebuildable vehicle stored at various Copart sites around the United States. Copart is the place where "vehicles" are stored until auction time, and then where you pick up your auction purchase. Google "COPART" and see for yourself.
Salvageworld.net is but one way to participate in a REAL, ACTUAL, auction. They are legit and their methods are legit and the fact that they put up with "the common man" in this venue just astounds me. SalvageWorld will do what they say. BEWARE: There is no such thing as something-for-nothing.
I am a ASE Master Automotive technician looking for a deal on a personal vehicle and only by the grace of God have i not lost my shirt. Single biggest shortcoming: You can NEVER look the vehicle over prior to purchase. You can't hear it run. You can't see if the airbag system warning lite is on. You can't see if the ABS warning lite is on. Are the airbags even there? You don't know NOTHING and they guarantee NOTHING.
THEY cannot see the car nor is there anyone that can look the car over for you. Not seeing the car up-close and personal is a Deal breaker if you are considering a "runs and drives" car to actually take home and drive. Don't do the $400 deposit. There is a reason a "run and drive" car is sitting at a copart site.
now... It would be one thing if you could ever purchase a running vehicle for 25 cents on the dollar. However, "Run and drives" sell for no less than 60 cents on the dollar fees, and that is WRONG for a vehicle you can never see before purchase.
Take the hybrid I purchased for $4000 back in May. Clean Carfax and clean title. Pictures looked good. It was listed as frame damage, but not on the carfax. But it was noted on the autocheck. If it had not actually been wrecked, it might be worth $6000 to $7500. But for $4000 it doesn't have to be perfect, right? But... It needed a $1300 HYBRID battery and a $1100 exhaust system before I could pass emissions inspection.
Yeah, it may "run and drive" but what will it take to make it legal to drive on the road? So, do not do this if you are not a professional mechanic, rebuilder, or autobody shop. If you need a parts car, do this. If you need a working, running vehicle, run away unless you know somebody in "the business" that can fix it after you buy it.
Once you leave the $400 deposit, you're pretty much on the hook for 3 months but they WILL work hard to get a vehicle. And actually, the fees are really probably reasonable for all the crap and lost auctions salvageworld folks have to put up with on the way to actually getting a successful winning deal. But on a $1000 "parts car" I'm bidding on, is adding another $600 in fees a deal? How bad do you need the parts?
Okay. So i hope this gets googled and if you take the time to respond to this post, it will notify me by email. So if you have questions, just do the same and i will post back. Today I just registered my hybrid here in Texas, so now I have time to "talk".
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